Whenever I see an oyster, no matter where I am, I think of home. To me, oysters are more than a delicacy: they are a taste of the Eastern Shore, a reminder to me of the brackish waters where generations of my family have harvested these treasured Mothers of Pearls. Every single oyster holds the stories of people, traditions, and history that have sculpted this small coastal area. They link us to the past and the present.

Oysters have been the anchor of the economy of coastal communities, especially on the Eastern Shore of Maryland for decades. Oysters have supported generations on top of generations of watermen, contributing to livelihoods through harvesting, processing, and selling. However, these creatures are more than providers; they are the culture of many coastal communities. They are sewn into the lives of this community, symbolizing the love of the local waters.

TRADITIONAL OYSTER HARVESTING METHODS

Tonging

Hand tonging is one of the oldest and most laboring forms of oyster harvesting. The process involved using a pair of long-handled tongs, like large scissors, with rake-like ends to scoop up oysters from the bottom of the bay (Encyclopedia Virginia, 2021). Hang tonging requires ample upper body strength and endurance due to the repetitive process of lifting and lowering the heavy tongs. Besides the physical labor, watermen had to know where oyster beds were in the bay and adapt to various depths, currents, and visibility for tonging.

Dredging

Dredging is another traditional method used for deeper waters. The method required a metal frame or basket to be dragged across the oyster beds from a boat (Felver, 2021). When dredging came into action in the 1800s, watermen were relieved and gave up hand tonging (Felver, 2021). Dredging required precise control of the boat to ensure it would stay on track and effectively harvest oysters. What is fascinating is that my great-grandfathers still utilized hand tongs in the early and mid-1900s.

Clifford Warren, A. (1907). Dredge Comes Up from The Deep Like a Mining Cage of Steel.

THE LADIES OF THE PACKING HOUSE

Black women have played a significant role in oyster packing houses on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. For decades behind closed doors, women were essential in the oyster industry, especially in the early and mid-1900s. They oversaw sorting, packing, and shucking oysters. The most beautiful aspect is that these packing houses were more than a workplace; they became places where women would bring their children, sing hymns, and be a community with each other (Washington College Review, 2024). These women in the oyster industry have also faced challenges related to labor conditions, pay equity, and recognition. A notable example of these challenges is the Crisfield 1938 Crab Picker Strike. That year crab pickers went on strike to protest packing houses that were lowering their pay from 35 cents to 25 cents per pound. Approximately 600 women, mostly Black women, participated in the strike that began on April 6, 1938, until May 10, 1938, when packing house owners finally signed an agreement to restore wages to 35 cents a pound and recognize the cannery union (Walburn Viviano, 2024). In those five weeks, the pause in processing had a major impact on Crisfield and moved through the Eastern Shore. This is one of the many stories that illustrate the women who stood up for themselves showing packing houses that they were crucial to the economy and community. These women's contributions to packing houses on the Eastern Shore are a testimony to their resilience and skill to an industry that did not appreciate them enough.

Frye, J. (1950). OYSTER SHUCKERS.

OYSTERS AS FOOD

Raw, grilled, stews and fritters! The list of traditional oyster dishes. After blue crabs, oysters play a huge role in Eastern Shore cuisine, reflecting the maritime heritage surrounding the bay. Several traditional dishes spotlight the versatility of these lovely creatures. A staple of the Eastern Shore is the renowned raw oyster, usually served on a half shell. This dish is simple but loved by many for the unique taste of its location in the bay. Raw oysters are best served with lemon juice, cocktail sauce, horseradish, or mignonette sauce. Another favorite way to serve oysters is grilled. Grilling enriches the flavors while cooking it in the process. Grilled oysters are often topped with butter, herbs, shredded cheese, hot sauce, and anything your heart desires. Oyster fritters are popular at fairs, carnivals, and local events on the Eastern Shore. Fritters include shucked oyster meat mixed into a seasoned batter consisting of pancake mix, cornmeal, salt, pepper, and old bay, then fried to perfection. Oysters are more than just food on the Eastern Shore. These dishes serve as a reminder of home and those who have indulged in these cuisines for generations.

SUSTAINING TRADITIONS

The culture of the maritime of the Eastern Shore continues to be preserved by local organizations, museums, and historical societies. The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, MD is an excellent example of an organization preserving the heritage of the Chesapeake Bay on the Eastern Shore. The museum’s exhibits display tools, boats, and practices used in oyster harvesting over centuries, while conducting events that illustrate the impact of oysters in the Chesapeake Bay (Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, 2023). The Talbot Historical Society and the Dorchester Historical Society also have a key role in documenting and preserving stories of local watermen. These special places hold archives of photographs, oral stories, and documents that capture the oyster industry over centuries and generations.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

KYLA BORDLEY

Kyla Bordley is a Minorities In Aquaculture program participant that spent her summer at Horn Point Oyster Hatchery to deepen her hands-on experience. Currently a junior at Coastal Carolina University, Kyla majors in Sustainability and Coastal Resilience. She plans to pursue a master's degree in marine and wildlife conservation, driven by her commitment to protecting our oceans and coastal ecosystems.

Sources:

Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. (2023, March 13). Our history - Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum - Embrace the History, Environment, and Culture of the Region While Enjoying Waterfront Views and Authentic Experiences. https://cbmm.org/our-history/

Clifford Warren, A. (1907). Dredge Comes Up from The Deep Like a Mining Cage of Steel. (“BEYOND THE FRAME: In the Name of the Oyster”) [Painting]. The Mariners’ Museum, Newport News, VA, United States.

https://catalogs.marinersmuseum.org/object/CL20648

Encyclopedia Virginia. (2021, July 20). Oyster Tongers - Encyclopedia Virginia. https://encyclopediavirginia.org/sailors-on-long-boats/

Felver, R. (2019, January 31). Dredging up a debate. Chesapeake Bay. https://www.chesapeakebay.net/news/blog/dredging-up-a-debate

Frye, J. (1950). OYSTER SHUCKERS. [Photograph]. The Mariners’ Museum, Newport News, VA, United States. https://catalogs.marinersmuseum.org/object/ARI46952

Walburn Viviano, M. (2024, May 14). Crisfield’s 1938 Crab Picker Strike Remembered with New Historical Marker. Chesapeake Bay Magazine. https://www.chesapeakebaymagazine.com/crisfields-1938-crab-picker-strike-remembered-with-new-historical-marker/

Unknown. (ca 1900). Oyster Tongers. [Photograph]. Hampton History Museum, Hampton, VA, United States. https://encyclopediavirginia.org/sailors-on-long-boats/

Washington College Review. (2024, July 2). Society and the Bay: How the fishing industry changed the Social Make-Up of the Chesapeake Region. https://washcollreview.com/2024/05/01/society-and-the-bay-how-the-fishing-industry-changed-the-social-make-up-of-the-chesapeake-region/#:~:text=In%20fact%2C%20these%20packing%20houses,in%20community%20with%20each%20other.

PEARLS OF LOVE: THE CULTURAL ESSENCE OF OYSTERS ON THE CHESAPEAKE BAY, EASTERN SHORE